How to Buy a Router - What Actually Matters

Go to any shop that sells routers and you’ll see boxes covered in numbers and acronyms: AX5400, MU-MIMO, OFDMA, tri-band, beamforming. The prices range from $30 to $600. Nobody expects you to know the difference.

Here’s what actually matters.

The one spec that matters more than any other

Wi-Fi generation. That’s it. Nothing else on the box makes as much difference.

Wi-Fi generations have names and numbers:

For most people, Wi-Fi 6 is the sweet spot. It’s fast enough for anything you’re doing today, it handles multiple devices well, and it’s cheap. You can get a good Wi-Fi 6 router for $80-100.

Wi-Fi 5 is still fine if you have a small home and not many devices. But don’t buy one new - Wi-Fi 6 is cheap enough that there’s no reason to save $20 and get last decade’s technology.

Wi-Fi 7 is for people with gigabit internet and a house full of the latest phones and laptops. If you’re not sure whether you need it, you don’t.

The number on the box (AX1800, AX5400, etc.) is mostly marketing

Every Wi-Fi 6 router has a number after “AX” - AX1800, AX3000, AX5400, AX11000. This number is the theoretical maximum speed of the router, adding up all its bands.

It’s almost meaningless in real life. Here’s why:

• The number combines the 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz speeds. You only use one at a time per device. So an AX5400 router can’t actually give any single device 5400 Mbps.
• The theoretical speed assumes perfect conditions - no walls, no interference, no other devices. In the real world, you’ll get a fraction of it.
• Your internet connection is probably 100-500 Mbps anyway. Even an old Wi-Fi 5 router can handle that.

What the number actually tells you: A higher number usually means more antennas and better hardware. An AX5400 router is genuinely better than an AX1800 router in most cases. But not because of the speed - because it has better components.

The practical rule: For most homes, AX3000 or AX5400 is plenty. Don’t pay extra for AX11000 unless you have a very large house, very fast internet, and very many devices.

What about mesh?

Mesh systems (a main router plus satellite nodes that talk to each other) are popular, and we covered when you actually need them in the mesh guide. On the buying front:

• A single good router is cheaper and faster than an entry-level mesh system. If your home is under 1,500 square feet and not awkwardly shaped, start with one good router.
• A mesh system makes sense for larger homes, multi-story buildings, or homes with thick walls. But don’t buy the cheapest mesh system. A $200 mesh system can be worse than a $100 single router.
• The best mesh systems let you wire the nodes together (wired backhaul). If you can run one cable between floors, a wired mesh is better than any single router.

Ports - because Wi-Fi is not the only thing that matters

A router is also a switch (remember from the router vs modem vs switch guide?). The ports on the back matter.

What you need:

• At least 4 Ethernet ports (Gigabit, not 100 Mbps - check the fine print)
• At least 1 USB port (for sharing a printer or hard drive, or setting up a basic NAS)
• If your internet is faster than 1 Gbps, look for “2.5 Gbps” or “multi-gig” ports

What you don’t need:

• 8 ports on a home router (buy a separate switch if you need more)
• SFP ports (they’re for business equipment)

The features worth paying for

Quality of Service (QoS) - this is genuinely useful. It lets you tell the router “video calls get priority over Netflix downloads.” If you work from home and share your internet, this matters. We covered it in the router performance guide.

Guest network - every router should have this. If you’re choosing between two routers and one has a simple guest network setup, pick that one.

Parental controls - useful if you have kids. Some routers (like TP-Link’s) have decent free controls. Others try to sell you a subscription. Avoid the subscription ones.

Easy app setup - all modern routers have phone apps. Some are good (TP-Link Tether, Asus Router). Some are terrible (anything from a brand you’ve never heard of). If the app has mostly 2-star reviews, the router will be a headache.

The features not worth paying for

Beamforming - it’s in every router now. It works, but not enough to matter in a buying decision.

MU-MIMO - also in every router now. It helps when multiple devices are active at once, but the difference is small.

Tri-band - a third Wi-Fi band that only mesh systems use. On a single router, it’s useless. Don’t pay extra for it.

Anti-virus / “AI security” / subscription services - your router does not need antivirus software. These are cash grabs. If a router tries to sell you a subscription during setup, return it.

Budget recommendations

Not endorsing specific models (they change every year), but here’s the price range to aim for:

• Under $60: You’ll get a basic Wi-Fi 5 or low-end Wi-Fi 6 router. Fine for a small flat with few devices. Don’t expect it to handle a house full of smart home gadgets.
• $80-$120: The sweet spot. Good Wi-Fi 6, decent hardware, handles 20-30 devices. This is what most people should spend.
• $150-$250: Wi-Fi 6 with better hardware, more ports, better QoS. For larger homes and heavier use.
• Over $250: Wi-Fi 7, mesh systems, or premium Wi-Fi 6. For enthusiasts and very large homes.

What to do now

1. Check what your internet speed actually is (run a wired speed test - not Wi-Fi, wired)
2. Check how many devices are on your network (look in your router’s app or settings)
3. If your current router is more than 4 years old, or if it’s the one your ISP gave you, consider upgrading
4. Spend $80-$120 on a Wi-Fi 6 router from TP-Link, Asus, or Netgear
5. Set it up using the app - it takes about 10 minutes
6. If your Wi-Fi still isn’t good enough after that, look at mesh or running a cable - don’t blame the router

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